I'm a freelance writer and curious traveler. I write about food and drink, culture, the arts, people with compelling stories, and experiential travel.


An Oyster Poacher’s Guide to Connemara (Saveur), Brown Bread is the Spine of Ireland (TASTE), Getting in the Water with Sharks (AFAR)

A few favorites from the middle of 2017: The Oyster Poachers of Connemara (Saveur) Like many stories in Ireland, this one begins in a bar. It was after closing time one quiet night during the mid 1960s in Connemara, and in the corner of the pub, a group of lads talked in low voices while nursing their pints. The publican went about his business, wiping up the bar top and rearranging stools. Soon, the men had empty glasses, but made no moves towards leaving. They were waiting for something. When the headlights of a pick-up truck shone through the window, they…

A Winemaker’s Map of Piemonte (AFAR), A Wine Lover’s Guide to Cafayate (Departures), and The New York City Anti-Restaurant Guide (b.Inspired)

A few favorites from the first quarter of 2017: How to Do Piedmont Like an Italian Winemaker (AFAR) When I ask Michele Chiarlo about cooking with white truffles, the corners of his lips rise into a smile and he leans back deeply in his chair, daydreaming. “Perfection is simple,” he says. “Two eggs, fried, tartufi bianchi on top.” He pauses as if deep in a powerful taste memory and continues, “Or maybe the best is over fresh tagliatelle. Or risotto. Can all three be the best?” A Wine Lover’s Guide to Cafayate, Argentina (Departures) The road to Cafayate has one lane…

A Trail of Lighthouses in Ireland (NYT), Mezcal at the Source (FT), and Chicken Advice (Bon Appetit)

A few favorites from fall 2016. Keeping the Fire of Irish Lighthouses Alive (New York Times) A narrative story exploring Ireland’s coastline with lighthouses guiding the way. These historic landmarks now host hotels and self-catering apartments, offering a glimpse into the life of a lighthouse keeper. Mezcal at the Source (Financial Times): In the hills of Oaxaca, I visited a mezcal distillery to witness an agave roast and taste the smoky spirit at the source. When to Order the Chicken? (Bon Appetit): An exceptional roasted chicken at Raoul’s in SoHo inspires an investigation into how chicken has evolved in restaurants….